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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate well-known award-winning venues. However, tucked near the top among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a outlying area of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

The little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has made the family totally surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their small shop securing such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning outside its own doors. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary achievement.